As a general guideline, use a protocol for one cycle (4 to 8 weeks).
After that first cycle, switch to a different protocol. This provides new stimulation for the muscles and tendons, and staves off a plateau.
Harness + weights
14 - 20mm
Dr. Eva López
Aim for a load where you don’t quite reach failure at 10 seconds.
This typically involves adding weight with a harness.
This protocol promotes neurological changes, and as a result will produce the fastest strength gains. This does not mean you should be doing these exclusively.
20 to 40 seconds
Dr. Tyler Nelson
Find an edge depth where you can hold a hang between 20 to 40 seconds. The goal here is to hang until muscular failure.
This protocol is perfect for beginners. It does not require additional weight, nor a pulley system to reduce weight.
This protocol with its longer hang times and reduced intensity, is focused on tendon health and hypertrophy.
Endurance or strength endurance
Weights + pulley system
7 seconds, followed by a 3s rest
Dr. Michael Anderson, Mark Anderson
This protocol was developed to try to mimic climbing as closely as possible.
For endurance, aim for a low intensity load. You should not get pumped at all.
For strength endurance aim for a high intensity load. You should aim to get really pumped on the last set.
Adjust the load accordingly.
To help you find the correct load, you can do a testing session where you find the maximum load you can hang for 7 seconds.
For endurance, aim for 40% of your max load.
For power endurance, aim for 60 - 80% of your max load.
I weigh 70kg and can hang an extra 30kg for 7s.
Total load = 100kg.
40%: remove 30kg with pulley system
80%: add 10 kg with harness